Behavior & Training

Why Your Cat Pees Outside the Litter Box or Sprays (and How to Fix It)

Medical and behavioral causes of house soiling and urine spraying in cats, how to tell them apart, and a step-by-step plan to solve the problem.

Updated · 3 min read · By the Cats Complete Guide editorial team

Why Your Cat Pees Outside the Litter Box or Sprays (and How to Fix It)
On this page
  1. Toileting vs spraying
  2. Step 1: rule out medical causes
  3. Step 2: review the litter box set-up
  4. Step 3: identify stress
  5. Step 4: clean properly
  6. Step 5: change how the spot feels
  7. Solving spraying
  8. When to get extra help

Few problems are more frustrating than a cat who stops using the litter box. But punishment never helps — there is always a reason, and most causes can be fixed. The first step is working out whether your cat is toileting outside the box (emptying the bladder) or spraying (marking).

Toileting vs spraying

Inappropriate urinationUrine spraying (marking)
PostureSquattingStanding, tail upright and quivering, backing up to a surface
SurfaceUsually horizontal: floors, beds, rugs, laundry, bathUsually vertical: walls, doors, curtains, furniture, windows
AmountNormal to large puddleSmall amount
Also feces?SometimesRarely
Main causesMedical problems, litter box dislikes, stressTerritorial stress, other cats, intact males

Step 1: rule out medical causes

Always start with a vet visit. Common medical causes include:

  • Cystitis, urinary crystals, stones or infection — often causes frequent small urinations, straining, blood and urinating in unusual places
  • Kidney disease, diabetes or hyperthyroidism — more urine than the box can handle, or urgency
  • Arthritis or pain — climbing into the box hurts
  • Constipation or diarrhea
  • Cognitive decline in older cats

Step 2: review the litter box set-up

Many cats stop using a box they dislike. Check:

  • Enough boxes? One per cat plus one, in different locations
  • Big enough? 1.5 times the length of your cat
  • Clean enough? Scooped at least daily
  • Litter: unscented, fine clumping litter, about 5 cm deep. Did you recently change brand?
  • Location: quiet, safe, away from food and noisy appliances, with an escape route
  • Liners and covers: some cats dislike them

See the full litter box guide.

Step 3: identify stress

Stress is a major trigger for both house soiling and spraying:

  • A new cat, pet, baby or partner
  • Outdoor cats seen through windows, or entering through the cat flap
  • Conflict between resident cats — often silent, with one cat blocking access to the box
  • Moving house, renovation, visitors, changes in routine
  • Punishment or rough handling

See stress in cats.

Step 4: clean properly

Cats return to spots that smell of urine. Use an enzymatic cleaner designed for pet urine; avoid ammonia-based cleaners, which smell like urine to cats. A UV flashlight helps find old spots.

Step 5: change how the spot feels

  • Put food bowls, a bed or toys on the spot (cats don't soil where they eat or sleep)
  • Place a litter box temporarily on the favored spot, then move it gradually
  • Cover the area with foil or plastic temporarily

Solving spraying

  • Neuter — spraying is far more common in intact males. Most neutered males stop or reduce spraying.
  • Block the view of outdoor cats: frosted window film on lower panes, deterrents in the garden, a microchip cat flap.
  • Reduce competition between cats: more resources in separate locations, extra vertical space.
  • Synthetic feline facial pheromone diffusers may help some cats.
  • Regular, predictable play and routines.

When to get extra help

If the problem continues after medical causes are treated and the environment is improved, ask your vet about medication or a referral to a veterinary behaviorist or certified feline behavior consultant. See cat aggression and when to get help.

What not to do: never rub a cat's nose in urine, shout or punish. It increases stress and makes the problem worse.